燒毀!斷開與鎖頭電的連結 永別火燒車! - 機車
By Olga
at 2022-10-20T11:05
at 2022-10-20T11:05
Table of Contents
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內有大量靈魂畫手圖 慎入
---------------------------------------------------------
外送族越來越多
許多人會在愛車上加裝許多第三方零件
霧燈拉
行車紀錄器
USB充電器
保溫加熱箱
加溫把手
彈射座椅
導彈追蹤裝置
等等等等 一堆有的沒的
然後每條每條 都從鎖頭正電拉
但像是一些車系
鎖頭那邊的線只使用了細細的18AWG電線(18 SWAG很粗 ㄏㄏ)
一般18AWG那種絞線 用在機車上
我估計的安全電流拉
大概緊繃就8~9A上下 了不起到10A就緊繃到要爆了
https://imgur.com/vczQQxI
https://imgur.com/TLow3tC
隨隨便便一個車充+行車紀錄器 就直接頂到10A緊繃上限
更不用提線組老化等等有的沒的因素
最後就是那條細細的鎖頭電過載 燒毀!
https://imgur.com/nQFWC3U
幸運色是紫色
因為外星人不帶帽子
遠離火燒車 從斷開與鎖頭正電的連結做起!
--------
我覺得能想到從鎖頭拉電是很棒的構思
因為直接從電瓶拉電
那該裝置就是不停吃電
那怕是做個開關 都要怕停路邊時 有小白去給你按開
然後等到你要發車時
「幹!阿那ㄟ某電」
那就很多人站內信我
「阿從鎖頭拉會燒 從電瓶拉會有人把你搞沒電 我要裝第三方裝置要怎麼裝」
「繼電器」
聽起來不錯 對吧
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所需物品:
12V 4P繼電器(網拍一堆)
機車鎖頭線組(才不用破壞原車線路)
保險絲(可裝可不裝)
14AWG線
(約可耐流13.5A 緊繃15A左右)
(不建議用到8AWG線以上 太粗 後置電瓶車種車殼有機率關不起來)
要安裝的設備
(廢話)
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繼電器腳位可以直接看圖
或是拿三用電錶量
看圖法:
https://imgur.com/hZwUNrR
簡單 粗暴
三用電表法:
繼電器電路
https://imgur.com/2Y6DKwZ
基本原理就是裡頭有線圈
線圈通電後產生電場磁場 然後把接點吸過去導通
所以繼電器的功用只有導通而已 沒有多深的原理在
三用電錶切到歐姆檔 (線圈是導體 導通就會有電阻)
看哪兩隻腳有電阻 就是線圈 可以拿去接正極跟負極
另一端就是接電瓶正電 跟商品正電
-------------------------------------------------------
電路圖直接變這樣
https://imgur.com/PvYCyB1
這樣的好處是說
https://imgur.com/LVxfXFU
(原電路)
高達10A 再加裝甚麼有的沒的 直接燒毀!
https://imgur.com/seg85o3
https://imgur.com/NWPlsvb
(簡易改良)
我怎麼樣加裝新東西 不管未來還要加什麼有的沒的
鎖頭都一律只吃大約7.2A左右 不會在高了
甚至可以進一步
https://imgur.com/tlE7gHQ
繼電器耐流普遍也有20~30A
14AWG線約15A
這樣原車線組的負載 甚至比加裝前 少上非常非常多
還多加上了一個保險絲 安全++
---------------------------------------------------
鎖頭怎麼取電
光陽三陽車系
口訣:「紅進黑出綠接地」
紅色是電瓶到鎖頭的電
黑色是通過鎖頭 要轉鑰匙才會出來的電
綠色是接地線
所以
「繼電器 鎖頭正電要接 黑色線」
山葉口訣:「紅進棕出黑接地」
中出 ㄏㄏㄏ
紅色是電瓶到鎖頭的電
棕色是通過鎖頭 要轉鑰匙才會出來的電
黑色是接地線
所以
「繼電器 鎖頭正電 要接 棕色線」
但我個人比較少在記這些 也怕車子電路有改過
可以使用三用電表
1.負極搭鐵
2.開啟電門
3.正極慢慢搓 應該會搓到有2~3條 11V+電壓的線
然後關掉電門 電壓消失的那1~2條 就是我們要接去繼電器的
如果有2條 選其中1條即可
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最後閒聊
因為電流過載導致火燒車 有9成9
都是因為原車線路的保險絲沒有做動
為甚麼沒有作動?
1.保險絲故障
2.某次的維修中 車行擅自把保險絲耐流提高導致
很多車行
客人推進來 保險絲燒了
10A的保險絲燒了 也不察原因
直接就換一個新保險絲
又燒掉 怎麼辦(廢話 你連原因都沒查)
換15A的 20A的 30A的保險絲
那就等於保險絲直接被拔掉的概念
最後就是火燒車
哀...
以上
謝謝大家
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