野狼傳奇R改野狼傳奇把 傳狼把 - 野狼
By Enid
at 2010-03-01T15:25
at 2010-03-01T15:25
Table of Contents
http://www.wretch.cc/blog/RaveMan/15043386
網誌版
=
騎了一年多,三萬多公里
坐姿還是穩定不下來...
原因很簡單,就是有分離沒後移...
改把與改後移之間
改把是較為划算且較"正確"的
起碼我是這麼認為
=
一、所需材料:(照片內含料號與實物照)
1.把手(已有)
2.固定橡皮(20NT$*4)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408764&p=0
3.方向把手下固定座(190NT$*2)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408765&p=1
4.上管支架(100NT$*2)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408766&p=2
5.前叉頂樑(600NT$*1)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408767&p=3
=
二、改裝大綱
也沒什麼好寫的
先將手把拆掉,但之前要先把拉桿座和開關總成和把手配重等卸除
接著換三角台,然後再復原
把手的角度就自己大概抓一下,不滿意就再換角度重鎖
拉桿角度、後照鏡、離合器間隙和油門線間隙記得要調整
=
三、碎碎念
其實改把手難易度不高
重點是在於哪些東西可以流用、哪些不行
很多人都是自己沒親自改過,或是亂聽來的小道消息
然後亂傳一通...
實在是很糟...
=
四、施工車與原廠車之差異
1.三角台有降,但降沒多少,了不起2、3公分吧...
2.PE26
3.勁左手把開關
=
五、本次改裝重點整理
離合器線: 可流用
油門線: 線路原先有過燈耳,須改,不繞燈耳才夠長
左開關: 凸點磨掉即可
右開關: 把凸點的鐵片抽出即可
把手配重: 可流用
金屬煞車油管: 可流用
=
六、改裝前與改裝後之差異
把手震動: 較小
騎士三角與騎乘: 腰部負擔減輕、騎乘姿勢較佳、把手較敏(力臂)
--
http://www.wretch.cc/blog/RaveMan
--
網誌版
=
騎了一年多,三萬多公里
坐姿還是穩定不下來...
原因很簡單,就是有分離沒後移...
改把與改後移之間
改把是較為划算且較"正確"的
起碼我是這麼認為
=
一、所需材料:(照片內含料號與實物照)
1.把手(已有)
2.固定橡皮(20NT$*4)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408764&p=0
3.方向把手下固定座(190NT$*2)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408765&p=1
4.上管支架(100NT$*2)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408766&p=2
5.前叉頂樑(600NT$*1)
http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?i=RaveMan&b=33&f=1829408767&p=3
=
二、改裝大綱
也沒什麼好寫的
先將手把拆掉,但之前要先把拉桿座和開關總成和把手配重等卸除
接著換三角台,然後再復原
把手的角度就自己大概抓一下,不滿意就再換角度重鎖
拉桿角度、後照鏡、離合器間隙和油門線間隙記得要調整
=
三、碎碎念
其實改把手難易度不高
重點是在於哪些東西可以流用、哪些不行
很多人都是自己沒親自改過,或是亂聽來的小道消息
然後亂傳一通...
實在是很糟...
=
四、施工車與原廠車之差異
1.三角台有降,但降沒多少,了不起2、3公分吧...
2.PE26
3.勁左手把開關
=
五、本次改裝重點整理
離合器線: 可流用
油門線: 線路原先有過燈耳,須改,不繞燈耳才夠長
左開關: 凸點磨掉即可
右開關: 把凸點的鐵片抽出即可
把手配重: 可流用
金屬煞車油管: 可流用
=
六、改裝前與改裝後之差異
把手震動: 較小
騎士三角與騎乘: 腰部負擔減輕、騎乘姿勢較佳、把手較敏(力臂)
--
http://www.wretch.cc/blog/RaveMan
--
Tags:
野狼
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